Peacock Freeform Block (#4)

By Joyce Williams (aka JustDodie)


Peacock Colors Afghan square #4

These are general (not exact) instructions for the freeform block I created (Peacock colors afghan, block #4). I used Hobby Lobby’s ‘I Love This Yarn–Jazz Stripe’. The diagram (below) shows each segment, numbered in the order I created them. Basically, whenever the color of the yarn changed, I changed directions and worked a new segment, in a new stitch pattern. Following are the stitches I used for each segment. Remember, these are approximations. Depending on how you work, you may find you need to add or reduce the number of stitches or rows you need to achieve similar results. The really fun thing about freeform is: There’s NO wrong way to do it! Just happily add another stitch to fill in that empty spot, or extend a stitch here or there to smooth out the row. The most important thing to do is…. HAVE FUN!!

Instructions for extended stitches are at bottom of page
I used worsted weight yarn and a size J crochet hook

  1. Ch 9, work 8 rows of 8 sc, in back loops only
  2. Working around segment #1, work [dc, ch1, skip next stitch (or row)]
    Work 3 dc in each corner

  3. Work 5 rows of 11 sc, in front loops only
  4. Row 1: Sc across, working 1 sc in each row end and in each ch1 space.
    Row 2: Ch3 (serves as dc), skip next st, [2 dc in next st (cluster made), ch 1, skip next st] across, end dc in last st.
    Row 3: [Sc in space between 2-dc clusters, ch 1] across

  5. Work a mesh of [dc, ch 1] for 3 rows. In rows 2 and 3, work each stitch in the ch-1 space of previous row
  6. Work four rows of sc, in back loop only
  7. Work 3 rows of 8 sc, in back loop only
    After segment #7, do not turn work.
    Simply continue working in same direction as for segment #7.
    Extended stitches of segment #8 will be as tall as the 3 rows of sc in segment #7

  8. Work [ch1, edc (extended dc*), skip next st] across
  9. Work 5 rows of sc, in back loop only
  10. Work 6 rows of [sc, ch 1, skip next st]
  11. Work 1 row [etrc (extended trc**), ch 1, skip next st]
  12. Work 1 row hdc
  13. Work 1 row sc
  14. Work 1 row [dc, ch 1, skip next st]
  15. Work 2 rows sc, in back loop only
  16. Work 5 rows of sc, in back loop only
  17. Row 1: Work [dc, ch1, dc] across
    Row 2: Dc across
    Row 3: Work [dc, ch1, dc] across

  18. Work 6 rows sc, in back loop only
  19. Row 1: [ Dc, ch 1, skip next st] across
    Rows 2-3: Sc, in back loop only, across

  20. Work 5 rows sc, in front loop only
  21. Work 6 rows sc, in back loop only
  22. Row 1: Work [dc, ch 1, skip next st] across
    Rows 2-4: Sc, in back loop only, across

  23. Work 2 rows sc in back loops only, across

To work border:
Join contrasting solid color and work rounds of sc, in back loops only, until block reaches 12″. Do not join rounds, but instead, turn and work back around in opposite direction, in order to continue the ridges created by working in back loops.


Click on photo for full size chart

*To make extended double crochet (edc): Yo, draw up loop (3 loops now on hook), yo and draw through 1 loop, yo and draw through 2 loops; yo and draw through 1 loop, yo and draw through last 2 loops. This stitch can also be made doing the extension only once, at the beginning.

**Any crochet stitch can be extended in a similar way. In segment 11 I used an extended trc which means that I started out with two initial yarnovers, and repeated the extension step one extra time.

You may find these extended stitches referred to as ‘Elmore’ stitches as they were invented by William Elmore and published by him in the early 1990s. I happened upon his book, “More Elmore” by chance and it has become one of my most treasured books. I found the names he used for the stitches to be a bit confusing until I finally got the hang of what he was doing. He was simply adding an extra extension to each stitch, or to each step of each stitch. They’re a wonderful way to achieve a more gradual increase or decrease across a number of stitches.

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